ROME – Tradition returns triumphantly to the Italian tables set for Easter. And quality artisanal delicacies. Under the banner of less (in quantity) is better (in quality), also to avoid the repercussions of inflation. Inflation which first of all affects fish: the bad weather of the last few days has significantly reduced quantity and variety on the counters, furthermore fueling the flare-up in costs and therefore the choice, which will be mostly limited to lean food on Good Friday and to a minority of loyal consumers .
This is what emerges from a survey by CNA Agroalimentare on gastronomic consumption for the upcoming holidays. Savory and sweet are united by some trends: traditional & artisanal. To symbolize the renewal of culinary traditions, the consumption of lamb and kid, consumption driven by the orientation of many young chefs, who are including sheep in the menus of their restaurants, although families now find themselves having to deal with the increase of prices.
Lasagna in various variations and stuffed pasta, perhaps from an artisan laboratory, will compete for leadership in first courses but soups in chicken broth are still preferred in various territories. Various types of eggs, typical cured meats (for example, corallina) and cheeses (starting with pecorino) will in turn have a significant role, surrounded by vegetables such as artichokes, chicory, asparagus, broad beans, spinach, chard.
Moving on to desserts, doves and eggs, especially in the classic versions made by pastry chefs and bakers, will appear in almost all families, obviously of different sizes and surprises depending on economic availability. But this year it is the doves that triumph over chocolate eggs, thanks to the exponential increase in cocoa prices, which have risen to 10 thousand dollars or more per ton. The baked dessert will be on the tables of seven/eight families out of ten. The chocolate eggs will stop at five/six families.
The Neapolitan pastiera is becoming a national dessert and is also paving the way for two savory pies such as the casatiello and the cortano, alongside regional cheese pizzas in different formats, such as the calascioni ciociari, and the Ligurian torte pasqualina with artichokes. While among regional desserts, the Venetian fugassa, the Marche crescia, the Apulian scarcella, the Apulian and Sicilian almond paste lambs, among others, expand their space.