Never in my life have I seen and heard it rain so hard. Five minutes ago there was nothing wrong, now it sounds like the roof could give way at any moment. But in the restaurant where we are sitting, everyone eats quietly.
Anyone who is in Costa Rica during the rainy season – April to the end of November – quickly gets used to the downpours, which usually blow over quickly.
Trekpleister La Fortuna
We are on our way from the capital San José to La Fortuna, one of the most touristic places in the country. In the early 1990s, the number of hotels here could be counted on one hand, but now there is plenty to choose from: from trendy hostels such as Selina to luxury hotels with their own hot springs.
What has not changed is the reason why people like to come here: nature. Waterfall La Fortuna, the imposing volcano Arenal and the associated nature park have a great attraction.
Costa Rica has 139 volcanoes, nine of which are active. One of them is the Arenal Volcano. On clear days you can see the fumes coming from the top and with a bit of luck you can see glowing lava seeping down in the evening.
Relax in the hot springs
Unfortunately we do not see that, because a disadvantage of the rainy season is that those clouds tend to obstruct the view. The advantage is that it is not very busy during this period. There are still plenty of backpackers walking around and the cafes are pleasantly full, but when we go to Eco Termales Hot Springs, we don’t just float in the water.
La Fortuna has a lot of these volcanic hot springs. Eco Termales has six different pools with different temperatures. And – not unimportantly – a bar where they make damn good cocktails, including the local specialty Guaro Sour.
Magic moment
The next day we go into the water again, this time at the famous waterfall of La Fortuna. Entrance is 18 dollars and you have to descend 500 stairs and later go up again. But then you have something.
The water plunges down from a height of seventy meters. Of course you don’t swim directly under it, but it is allowed on the sides. Surrounded by tropical greenery and with the sound of that waterfall in the background, it is truly a magical moment.
But the best part is that here, in the distance, high in a tree, we spot our first sloth. This mammal, which hangs from a branch for hours and leisurely nibbles some leaves, is the symbol of Costa Rica.
Sloth spotting
A local guide found them easily, but for the average tourist it is a good search. You can see them through a camera with a huge zoom or binoculars, otherwise you will just follow the guide’s finger and stare at a dark spot somewhere in a treetop.
There are several sloth shelters around the country and tour companies, but read the online reviews before you go to make sure they are truly animal-friendly. If it says you can touch or feed the animals, don’t go.
We are lucky that during a visit to a coffee plantation we are treated to an encounter with a young sloth. The youngsters can’t get that high in the tree yet, so binoculars are not necessary.
From toucans to hummingbirds
The animals can come and go as they please, but they are having a great time here. Fun fact: everything is slow about the sloth, including his bowel movements. Only once a week do they climb down to defecate.
In addition to sloths, you are short of eyes and ears for all other animals in Costa Rica. We see all kinds of monkeys, an armadillo, brightly colored poison frogs and birds in all colors of the rainbow, including several toucans and hummingbirds.
We have now traveled further north, to the area of Rio Celeste. As everywhere in Costa Rica you will find small stalls with local food along the side of the road. Pineapple, much sweeter than with us, for 75 cents. Fresh from the pineapple fields you see everywhere here.
Everything smells like wet dog
It still rains as often and hard as ever. The humidity doesn’t lie and almost everything in my suitcase smells like wet dog.
Armed with a poncho we go to Tenorio Volcano National Park. But the weather gods grant us an afternoon without soggy socks and so we walk through the rainforest to another beautiful waterfall.
The Rio Celeste waterfall is named after the river of the same name, which is loved for the azure blue color of the water. We will take a closer look at this during a Tubing Tour.
In inflatable tire across river
That means that we let ourselves be carried along by the river in an inflatable tire. A very nice way to be in nature.
On some parts the water flows a bit faster, which provides a bit of action. At other times you float in the water while all you see around you is green, interspersed with blue butterflies and bright red birds.
After this adventure we continue towards the west coast, where blue skies and sun await us. We go to the village of Nosara, where every tourist practices surfing or yoga. Usually both.
Bumpy car ride
A little stretching won’t hurt after the bumpy car ride here either. The roads along this stretch of coast are unpaved and have not been maintained for years, resulting in deep potholes. Four-wheel drive is not a luxury here.
What is really luxurious is the place where we will spend the last nights. Costa Rica is not the cheapest country to travel in anyway and nice hotel rooms under a hundred euros are scarce.
With room rates from 350 euros, Lagarta Lodge rises well above that, but it is a wonderful place to end your holiday. Lying at your infinity pool overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
The village is very friendly. With a board under their arm, surfers walk barefoot through the streets or sit in trendy eateries such as La Ventanita with a healthy lunch and a laptop in front of them.
Nosara has more than thirty surf schools, but only a few of them are run by locals. While it is just so nice to be taught by someone who has been defying the local waves from an early age.
Lessons from local surfers
That’s why we go to Nosara CR Surf School, run by Ticos – as the Costa Ricans call themselves – Maikol and Carlos. The beginners practice under enthusiastic supervision in the surf, while the advanced paddle to the back.
Everyone manages to stand, which makes for happy faces. Afterwards we get a coconut on the side of the road before we flop down at the pool again. A coatis walks past as if it were the most normal thing in the world. And the great thing is: it is in Costa Rica too.
Also fun to do:
On the way to La Fortuna, make a stop in the village of Sarchí, known for its hand-painted bullock carts. Are those studios very touristy? Yes, quite a bit, but it’s still very nice to see. Walking across suspension bridges in Arenal National Park. In the middle of the rainforest you walk above the treetops. Those who want a little more adrenaline can also go ziplining in the same Sky Park, where you whiz along a cable over the same forest. Sip a local beer on Samara beach, an hour’s drive from Nosara. You can have a nice lunch with your feet in the sand at Locanda. Go bird watching. All you have to do is bring binoculars and look up at the omnipresent nature. Costs nothing and it is really great if you suddenly see a quetzal flying by.
More information about Costa Rica can be found here.
